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Climbing Site in Cave of Darkness,Perlis.Malaysia

BUKIT TAKUN CLIMBING ROUTE INFORMATION

West Malaysia : Perlis : Padang Besar: Gua Kelam

Gua Kelam (Cave of Darkness)

Type of Climb: Sport Climbing
Type of Rock: Limestone
Range of difficulty: -5 - 7b+

Specific routes details :
1. Dewi Kandi
grade 5 –18m –8 bolts
2. Pawana
grade 6a –12m –5 bolts
3. Serakah
grade 6b –12m –5 bolts
4. Seladang + Labi
grade 6a –12m –5 bolts
5. Mulakan
grade 6a –12m –5 bolts
6. Kantoi
grade 6a –14m –5 bolts
7. Jimrummy
grade 6a –13m –5 bolts
8. Ubi Karim
grade 6a+ –14m –5 bolts
9. Batu Berjuntai
grade 6a+ –13m –5 bolts
10. Sebarau
grade 6a –13m –5 bolts
11. Ekspresi
grade 6b+ –13m –5 bolts
12. Penyengat Batu
grade 6a+ –13m –5 bolts

Specific routes details :
1. Agot & Abot
grade 5c –20m –8 bolts
2. Egoism
grade 6a+ –20m –8 bolts
3. Rambang Mata
grade 6b –21m –8 bolts
4. Project Route
22m –9 bolts


Specific routes details :
1. Unsung Heroes
grade 6c–17m –7 bolts
2. Naked But Sacred
grade 6b+ –23m –12 bolts
3. Sentenced To Climb
grade 6c –20m –natural protection

Specific routes details :
1. Project Route
41m –10 + 10 bolts
2. Ninja
grade 6b+ –45m –10 + 10 bolts

Specific routes details :
1. End OfDarkness
grade 7b+ –22m –10 bolts
2. Project Route
23m –10 bolts
3. Where’s PC
grade 6b –28m –8 + 6 bolts
4. Kerja Gila
grade 6b –28m – 8 + 6 bolts
5. Free From Association
grade 6b+ –30m –9 + 8 bolts
6. J.B. Iguana
grade 6a –22m –10 bolts
7. Lambat No…
grade 6a+ –23m –10 bolts
8. Uno
grade 6c –20m –10 bolts
9. Sijilorotelu
grade 6a+ –21m –9 bolts

Specific routes details :
1. Achtung

grade 6b+ –24m –10 bolts
2. Califoniacationg

grade 7a –22m –10 bolts
3. Project Route
23m –9 bolts
4. Romanian Trio
grade 6c/6c+ –20m –9bolts
5. Project Route
18m –8
6. Project Route
18m –8

Arrival at the Cave

The first thing that electrified me always when I arrived at the cave of darkness, Gua Kelam is the picnickers enjoying themselves in the pool. I was feeling awe inspired as we approached the limestone hills of Gua Kelam. The ever greenish landscapes is a sight for sore eyes.

The cave has a history of its own, which is spelled out on a big concrete replica of a book at the entrance about the early settlers of Cave of Darkness. It stated that the immigrants from China or "Sinkhehs" settled in Perlis as early as 1850. Also it described the mining system used in Kaki Bukit during that era. Tin ore was in great demand due to the Industrial Revolution in Europe. It tells how the tin miners have to dig for tin ore in deep pit as deep as 500 to 600 feet in search for tin ore.

After going through the past history, we walked over to the counter to buy our tickets and continue our walk to the cave of darkness. An entrance fee of RM1 for adult and RM0.50 sen for kids was the fee. And we had a dollar off as Chandra was considered the tourist guide.

Perlis Gua Kelam

You can not called Gua Kelam a cave of darkness anymore as spotlights shines your path on the bridge. You don't need a torchlight or a cap too, while you walk and admire the once dark spooky or eerie cave.

You can see and feel the coolness of dripping waters from the stalagmites and stalactites. You can hear the underground streams gushing as if from nowhere. Nature's help of erosion can be seen on the smooth contoured wall.

Gua Kelam was formed in Setul Formation limestones, which are of Ordovician to Lower Devonian (500 to 370 Ma).

A sight of the cave tour are fossil Gastropodes in the limestone. The huge cave system is also famous for its huge rim stone pools.

Ladies are advised to wear proper shoes. You can't tip toe in your high heel in the caves. It does have an spooky effect of the past when you walk on the suspension bridge.

Having read the past history, I could feel the presence of the miners who went deep down to the caves using dangerously frail ladders and ropes. It makes you wonder how they survived working in the dark, deep water caves, hours after hours.

A good friend who went cave climbing told me to look deep into the caves, you can actually see some mining equipment left untouched.

And as he walked on the ground of the old mining area, he saw drawings and Chinese characters writing on the cave wall down below.

Gua Kelam offers an adventurous historical journey to a world of darkness where old rail tracks to carry tin-rich alluvium still exist. Remnants from the last fifty years are left intact in this cave. I have to stop my imagination working as I walked the three stories high caves.

How to get there?

By Bus

From Kuala Lumpur, get a ticket from Pudu Raya or Jalan Duta bus terminal. These buses will stop at the Express Bus Station on Jalan Bukit Lagi in Kangar. From there, you can take a taxi or the HBR Express Bus to Kaki Bukit.

By Boat

From Pulau Langkawi use the ferry boats to Kuala Perlis. A 45 mins one way boat ride is about RM15 per person.

By Plane

You can fly into Alor Star (in Kedah) and booked a taxi to Kangar. With taxi, it is approximately 45 mins ride.

By Car

Using the North-South Highway, you won't miss Kangar. Upon reaching Alor Star, using the Perlis/Langgar route out. Drive drive for another 40 km to the small town of Kaki Bukit where you can find the Cave of Darkness, also called Gua Kelam.

In Perlis, especially the northern part of Perlis (Since Perlis is not very big, northern and southern is not too far though), there are a lot of limestone hills. Those hills are good for rock climbing or just a short trekking. Beside the challenging trek or rock climb, the unique limestone structure also an attractive to the adventurers.

About Perlis,Malaysia

Perlis Map - Map of Perlis, Malaysia

Perlis Malaysia

Perlis is the smallest state in Malaysia. The state is famous for its serene unspoilt beauty, rustic rural scenes and verdant paddy fields. The expanse of verdant paddy fields makes the landscape appear like a huge canvas of brilliant green or gold, depending on the season.

History

Perlis was originally a part of the older kingdom of Kedah, which was conquered by Thailand in 1821. After restoration of the Sultan of Kedah to his throne in 1842, the Thais established Perlis as a vassal state.

In 1909 the Thais transferred suzerainty of Perlis from Thailand to Britain. Perlis came under Japanese occupation in 1941 during Second World War. Once the Japanese withdrew from Malaya, Perlis was placed under the British Military Administration.

In October 1945, the British laid out the plans for Malayan Union. Under the scheme, Pulau Pinang, Melaka and nine other Malay states were to be united under the Malayan Union. Malays opposition to the British plans to form the Malayan Union catalysed the movement for Independence. The Malay Federation was founded on 1 February 1948 and on 31 August 1957, Malaya achieved Independence.

Climate

Perlis has a tropical monsoon climate and the temperature is uniform in the range of 21 degrees C to 32 degrees C, while the weather is generally dry and warm with humidity in the lowlands ranging from 82% to 86%. The state's average annual rainfall is around 2500 mm with the wettest months being from May to December.

Best Time to Visit

Though you can visit Perlis all round the year, but it is better to avoid visiting Perlis during the wettest months i.e. from May to December.

Tourist Attractions/Places to See

Gua Kelam (Cave of Darkness): Located about 26 km from Kangar, the Gua Kelam traverse approximately 37 meters of limestone hills from Kaki Bukit on the Malaysian border to Wang Kelian near the Thai border. The caves were at one time used as a trading route between the locals and the Siamese.

Perlis State Park:The Perlis State Park is located along the Thai-Malaysian border. It encompasses the Mata Ayer and Wang Mu forest reserves. The park is rich in vegetation, trees, extensive caves and jungle streams. This is also the only place in Malaysia where the stump-tailed macaque is found.

Padang Besar: Padang Besar, is a border market on the Malaysia-Thailand border. It is a shopper's haunt for Malaysians seeking good bargains. Electrical items, leather goods and clothes are some of the favorite buys here.

Kuala Perlis: Located at the estuarine delta of the Sungai Perlis, Kuala Perlis is noted for its excellent laksa, a dish of rice noodles dipped in spiced fish-soup with sliced onions and cucumber. It is also the entry and exit point to Phuket Island and other coastal towns and villages of Southern Thailand, as well as to Pulau Langkawi.

Arau: Arau is a royal town, located 10 km south of Kangar, is home to the Istana Di-Raja (Royal Palace) and the Masjid Negeri (State Mosque).

Tasik Melati: Tasik Melati is a small but picturesque lake located in a lowland area about 8 km north of Kangar. More than 150 sandbar-islands may be seen all over the lake. Sampans can be rowed to these tiny islands. Elevated walkways extend out over the waters, providing hypnotic prospects out across the lake.

Snake Farm: The Snake Farm is primarily used as a research facility to test and develop serums for the treatment of venomous snake bites. A large collection of snakes can be viewed here.

Hutan Lipur Bukit Air:The Bukit Air Recreational Park is located near the Perlis snake farm. Visitors can experience the sights and sounds of a tropical rainforest or bathe in cool streams that meander through the forest.

Taman Herba:The Herb Gardens is located close to the Bukit Air Recreational Park. A large variety of herbs, spices and traditional plants, numbering over a 1000 species, are grown here. Visitors can see them, learn about their medical application and watch how they are cultivated in this park.

How to Reach Perlis

By Air: Perlis has no airport of its own. The nearest airport is Alor Setar airport in Kedah. From there cab takes about 45 minutes to Kangar.

By Road: Buses to Perlis are available from all the major towns of Malaysia.

Part 2

Climbing has standards to keep you safe, like a belayer.

Belaying is protecting the possible fall of a climber. Here are some suggestions on how to safely belay.

ROCK CLIMBING — The instructions outlined here are explained as if you were inside a climbing gym; although they could work equally well outside too.

Upon arriving at the gym you would put on a harness, which is the complex-looking matrix of nylon webbing and metal buckles, and tie the rope into the harness with a special knot called a figure-8 knot.

Your belayer would also be wearing a harness. The belayer is the name given to the person who will safeguard any falls you might take.

The belayer will use a belay device to create friction to stop the rope if you should fall, and to lower you back down when you reach the top of the climb. The Black Diamond ATC (Air Traffic Controller) is my belay device of choice as it is simple to use, functional, and can be bought most anywhere at a good price.

As you climb up, the rope running from you up to the top anchors will become slack. Your belayer will pull on her side of the rope and take out the slack through the belay device. Now the rope is tight running from you up to the top anchors, through the anchors, and back down to your belayer.

Before the climber begins to ascend, he and the belayer need to be on the same page. It doesn’t take much imagination to see what would happen if the climber started climbing before the belayer was ready to start belaying. A few verbal signals can help prevent any mishap.

When the climber is ready to climb he will say “On belay?” in the form of a question, because he truly wants to know if the belayer is ready to belay. The belayer when she is ready to belay, has checked that she and the climber’s harnesses are properly buckled, the rope is correctly tied into the climber’s harness and the rope is correctly run through the belay device will say “Belay is on”. The climber after double checking that his knot is properly tied, his harness is securely buckled and the belayer is ready to belay will say: “Climbing”. The belayer now says: “Climb On”. That is the signal for the climber to begin ascending. These principles apply anywhere a climber and belayer may be.

While the climber is ascending the route he may discover that he has too much slack in the rope. A verbal signal given to the belayer typically used is for the climber to say “Take”. This means the belayer needs to ‘take’ slack out of the rope by pulling more rope through the belay device. If the climber needs more rope he may simply say “Slack”. The belayer would allow some rope to pass back through the belay device. Whatever belay device you do end up using, make sure to thoroughly read the instructions before using it, or ask a qualified person to show you how to use it.

Belaying is a serious job and should not be taken lightly. You have the climber’s life literally in your hands.

Belayers should anticipate the climber’s moves and be prepared to give slack, take slack, and catch a fall. Belayers should always pay attention, and not be looking around or checking out the climb they want to do next once their job as the “belay slave” has ended. Be as vigilant belaying as you would want someone else to be when you are taking the “sharp end” of the rope.

Climbing Ratings Systems

MAKING THE GRADE

On rock

The rating of a climb is a subjective indication of the technical difficulty of the route or pitch to which it applies. All rating systems (apart from the British system) use the difficulty of the crux (the most difficult move or series of moves) to determine the rating, at least in principle. Often though, the rating is upped a bit if a climb is sustained (i.e. has a very long series of difficult moves).

Generally, the climber who makes the first ascent determines, or at least suggests, the rating. After a few ascents adjustments are not uncommon.

Note: The U.K grading system. Although bolted sport climbs tend to be given a single French grade, traditional climbs in Britain are graded using two figures, an adjectival and a technical grade. The adjectival grading says something about the overall difficulty of the climb, although this can be a bit vague as it can include things like how strenuous, sustained and bold the climb is. The technical grading says something about the most difficult move of the climb. For example, a well-protected climb with a hard crux will have a low adjectival grade, but a high technical one, e.g. E4 6c. Aid Climbing For most purposes, the following general aid rating scale is used:

A1: All placements are rock solid and easy.

A2: Placements are still solid, but the placements are awkward and a few may be difficult.

A3: Many placements are difficult, but there is the occasional solid piece.

A4: There are several placements in a row that will hold nothing more than body weight.

A5: 20 meters (60 ft) or more of body placements in a row.

However in the US, modern equipment and the relentless drive to climb bigger and more difficult routes, has pushed aid climbing to limits that were unimaginable a few decades ago. This has also led to a changed interpretation of the rating scales. This is how John Long and John Middendorf interpret the modern aid climbing ratings it in their 'Big Wall' book:

A0: Hanging from gear, stepping on pitons, pulling up on nuts, etc. Everything that doesn't require aiders and can't be honestly called 'free climbing'.

A1: Easy aid. Placements are easy and solid. Each piece should hold a fall.

A2: Moderate aid. Solid, but often awkward and strenuous placements. Maybe a difficult placement or two above good protection. Falls pose no danger.

A2+: Moderate aid, but with more tenuous placements above good protection. There is a potential for serious falls.

A3: Hard aid. Requires many tenuous placements in a row and pieces need to be tested before weighting them. There should be solid placements within the pitch, but they are rather few and far between. During a fall, up to eight pieces of pro may rip out, but there generally is little serious danger. Takes several hours to complete a pitch.

A3+: A3, but with a dangerous fall potential.

A4: Serious aid. Most placements hold little less than body weight and falls are serious affairs. Being 10 to 15 meters (30 to 50 ft) above the last solid piece is not uncommon.

A4+: Very serious aid. Placements are often very marginal and pitches require many hours to complete.

A5: Extreme aid. No piece in the whole pitch can be trusted to hold a fall. No bolts or rivets in A5 pitches.

A6: A5 with poor belays that won't hold a fall. The leader pops and the whole team are airborne. No one sane has ever done this, and no one insane who tried came back to tell us about it.

Ice Climbing

Ice ratings can be nebulous, because the medium constantly changes. When a waterfall first freezes each season, the ice can be thin and the climbing desperate. Later in the season it may become thicker and easier to climb and protect, even the time of day, weather and the prevailing wind can affect the nature of the ice. Generally the appearance of the route before you attempt to climb will be more indicative than the grade given in a guidebook.

The ice rating system in North America uses three categories: WI for water ice, AI for alpine ice, and M for mixed. Water ice grades currently go from WI 1 to WI 8.

WI 3: At this grade climbs are suitable for a fit beginner to top-rope.

WI 4: The ice approaches vertical.

WI 5: Climbs will have extended sections of vertical ice.

WI 6: Climbs are steep and technical.

WI 7: Steep, technical, and often dangerous. Marginal pick placements usually mean marginal protection, so as difficulty increases, so does the danger.

Mixed Climbing

Mixed climbs are commonly rated on the "M" scale that runs from M1 to M10. The M grade considers technical difficulties, such as how strenuous and tenuous the moves are, and how sustained the climbing is overall. Correlating standard rock-climbing grades to the M scale is misleading. For those of you who would like to compare them.

[M4 = 5.8] [M5 = 5.9] [M6 = 5.10] [M7 = 5.11] [M8 = 5.11/12] [M9/10 = 5.13]

Alpine Climbing

In the mountains, factors like temperature, wind, precipitation, etc. can change so quickly and cause such a variation in the difficulty of a climb that a route's rating must always be considered in the context of prevailing conditions. There are several different scales used to evaluate alpine difficulties and many alpine guidebooks will use a combination of them, if applicable.

Theoretically, the Alpine Ice (AI) and Water Ice (WI) prefixes are interchangeable. Alpine ice is generally formed via the recrystallisation of snow on glaciers, snowfields, and in couloirs and only rarely exceeds 70 degrees. Steeper ice in the alpine environment typically results from the refreezing of melt water, and thus a WI rating is more appropriate.

AI 1: Flat ice, like a typical glacier surface. Requires crampons.
AI 2: Sections of moderately steep (60-70 degrees) ice. Can be climbed with one tool.
AI 3: Sustained 70-80 degree ice. Requires two tools.
WI 4: Vertical sections of ice interrupted by ramps or ledges.
WI 5: Sustained, strenuous sections of vertical ice. Ice quality is usually good.
WI 6: Sustained pitches of vertical ice can often require a hanging belay. The ice may be delicate or of poorer quality. Protection is difficult.
WI 7: Sustained vertical ice, which may be thin, detached, or rotten. Protection is difficult or nonexistent.

For evaluating rock pitches on an alpine route, standard rock grades can be used (often based on the US grading system i.e. 510, 5.11 etc.). Although the grades are the same as at sea level, they fail to reflect the effects of altitude and things like melt water, or loose rock.

The Alpine Grade (NCCS system), which is often found in conjunction with technical ratings, considers all the technical and objective difficulties of a mountain route, and distills them into an estimate of how long a competent party will take to complete the route.

I: Several hours
II: a half-day
III: Most of a day
IV: A very long day
V: A climb of one-and-a-half to two days, at least one bivouac required.
VI: Two or more days, several bivouacs required.

Part I

All the basics and a little history too. If you are wondering whether or not you would like rock climbing...

ROCK CLIMBING — So, you want to start climbing, but where do you begin?

Climbing as we know it today has exploded in popularity over the last 40 years. Nowadays people can take their pick of any of the many types of climbing.

Here is a sample: *Bouldering is climbing on large rocks using only a few moves close off the ground. Sport climbing, is tying into a rope and clipping protection already fixed on the rock. If you live in an area where there are cliffs with cracks, you can put your own protection in as you ascend up. This is called traditional climbing.

If there is a climbing gym in your area, or shorter, accessible cliffs you will notice the ropes are or can be easily anchored to the tops of the climbs. All you have to do is tie in and climb. This is known as top roping. All of these methods of climbing are known as free climbing. You are using only your hands and feet to ascend up the rock. Your rope is attached to you for protection only.
Climbing has evolved enormously over the past decades. For example, in the past, climbers would tie a rope around their waist and climb up cliffs using thin pieces of metal called pitons to safeguard falls driven into the rock with a hammer.

This was scary business and the person leading the way up the rock would probably die if they fell. Needless to say not many fell, but not many people climbed either.

Today, climbing is much safer and the gear manufactured can hold many falls by the learning climber. Remember, whatever type of climbing you decide to pursue, be it *bouldering, sport, traditional, top roping or any other exciting kind, seek qualified instruction before casting off onto the rock. Climbing is definitely fun, but it can also be dangerous.

*Bouldering - Shoes, Chalk and Rock
Bouldering is a great alternative to more gear-intensive types of rock climbing, and a good way to practice your technique.

BOULDERING — Bouldering can be done just about anywhere you climb. Most bouldering is done on big rocks that have fallen off of a cliff or were dumped by a glacier thousands of years ago.

Many sport and traditional climbers boulder without even knowing it. Before you can clip the first bolt on a sport route or get in that first piece of protection trad climbing, you are bouldering. So if a partner calls and cancels, you can always climb up the first part of your favorite route or even find a boulder and practice edging, smearing and traversing to perfect your technique.

Bouldering is also a great way to “ease into” the sometimes expensive sport of rock climbing because it only requires climbing shoes, a chalk bag and maybe even a bouldering specific crash pad. The commitment level is relatively low, because as a rule, you should only boulder as high as you don’t mind falling.

Some boulderers get into a facet of the sport called “highballing.” Highballing is climbing to the top of a boulder; however, the boulder is usually as high as a modest sport route. With only a few inches of foam on the crash pad to break the fall, this dangerous undertaking should be reserved for experienced boulderers only. Remember, you always have the option to tie in and have someone belay you from up on top.

If at all possible, you should have someone spot you as you boulder especially on radically overhanging problems. On climbs like these it is easy to fall off and the chances of getting your feet back under you before your head hits the deck are slim.

Crash pads are used to cushion falls, preventing twisted or broken ankles and other injuries common to the sport. Be aware of vegetation before you throw down your pad. Take string to tie back bushes and trees and untie them when your session is finished. Boulderers have a nasty reputation for leaving trash at bouldering sites, so tidy up before you take off.

Bouldering is great for developing skills and building muscles necessary for quick, short and powerful routes. It is also a good way to practice hard moves close to the ground that are encountered on harder sport and trad routes.

Many years ago, bouldering was just a way to warm up for bigger routes, or something you did on a relaxing day; it is now one of the most popular forms of climbing the sport has to offer. There are several rating systems for bouldering which can even vary widely area to area. Here is the most commonly used system in use, the (John) Sherman V-Scale rating system:

Yosemite Decimal System:

5.8
5.9
5.10 a/b
5.10 c/d
5.11 a/b
5.11 c/d
5.12-
5.12
5.12+
5.13-
5.13
5.13+
5.14-
5.14
5.14+

Sherman V-Scale for Bouldering:

V0-
V
V0+
V1
V2
V3
V4
V5
V6
V7
V8
V9
V10
V11
V12
V13
V14
V15

Beginner's Guide to Climbing

Top 10 Climbing Tips and Techniques.

Becoming a world class climber can take some patience. Use these tips to help you get started on the right foot.

ROCK CLIMBING TIPS — Beginners and experts alike can use these tips to improve their climbing as well as impress the onlookers.

1. Picture yourself on a ladder when you climb, move from one hold to the next as relaxed as if you were ascending the rungs or steps of a ladder.

2. Avoid over gripping holds with your hands. You will quickly tire your arms out.

3. Use your feet like you would your hands.

4. Trust your feet. You can stand on your legs all day. You don’t hang with your arms all day. Too often people hang on their arms and then fall off, sailing right past a monster ledge they could have had their feet on.

5. Trust your belayer, and focus on climbing. If you are worried your belayer doesn’t have you, find a new belayer you can trust.

6. Concentrate on what is within reach. Sometimes you can use an intermediate hold (a smaller hold between secure holds) to get to a better hold.

7. Climb from the bottom up, not top down. Of course, if you can see the top of the route, look to see if there is a pattern working from the goal down to where you are, but when you start to climb, focus on the climbing at the bottom of the route as you climb up.

8. Climb in an X shape with your hips being the middle of the X. Hang with your arm straight. Your skeleton can take much more of a load than your muscles can. If the heel of your foot is hanging too far down you may notice your leg start to shake like a “sewing machine”. This is very common occurrence, simply apply more weight to your toes so your calf muscle spasm can stop.

9. Fear of heights is normal. Climbing is all about conquering those fears. Time will cure the fear of heights. A good trick is to look down no further than your feet to correctly place them on the best part of the hold.

10. Take your time. Climb like a cat does—quiet, deliberate, and precise. Picture the move, and then execute it. Use all of your limbs, not just two. The lower the angle of the climb, the more time you have, so use it. Make each move as fluid as possible.

*When starting out, good technique can be more useful than athleticism - get your skills up to speed.